Oral Fixation: Wine, and Charm, to Stay
Fort Greene and Clinton Hill are lucky to have a few very good wine shops — Oral Fixation is thinking of the Greene Grape, Thirst, Gnarly Vines, and Olivino — that are distinct enough to make a visit to each satisfying in its own way. The Greene Grape has an ever-evolving selection, a fabulous $15-and-under rack, and a great array of spirits; Thirst largely stocks sustainably-produced, small-estate wines from famed importer Kermit Lynch.
But Olivino, maybe the smallest shop of the three, has a special trait that sets it apart from its neighborhood peers. That is Bar Olivino, its postage stamp-sized wine bar two storefronts down from the retail shop, on Fulton between Clinton and Vanderbilt.
Bar Olivino opened in June 2008, four years after its retail counterpart opened. The bar successfully brings to life a less-is-more attitude, proving that it only takes a handsome, tiny space; an unconventional and reasonably priced wine selection; and simple edible accoutrements to create a delightful experience.
Only eight to ten people can fit at the bar, and two small tables can fit another eight, who can order any of about 20 wines by the glass (and a few beers) in its dim, triangular, white-bricked room. In a clever move, the bar offers only easily prepared nibbles: olives, cheese, charcuterie and chocolates — a few selections of each, hiding in small coolers behind the bar.
“Ever since I had the idea for the store, I wanted to do a wine bar as well,” said the proprietor, Katrine Pollari, a former designer who cites her travels throughout Europe as inspiration for her foray into wine.
Ms. Pollari admits that she initially didn’t consider the current space—formerly a cell phone store—but eventually was charmed by its funny shape and diminutive proportions. “The smallness of it helped me—smaller is easier,” she said, adding that it helps foster the intimate feeling of a local hangout, as opposed to a traditional wine bar. “It’s not for the swirl and spit crowd,” she said. “I’m investing in the neighborhood, making it a place for locals to come a couple of times a week.”
And Bar Olivino has intentionally woven itself into the neighborhood, serving its customers cheeses from Greene Grape Provisions and Choice Greene; charcuterie from Herve Katz, who also works with Choice; chocolates from Atlantic Avenue-based Nunu; and olives from Fairway in Red Hook.
Plus, all the wines Ms. Pollari offers at the bar are sold at the shop two doors down, so customers can take a little bit of the fabulous little bar home with them at the end of the night.
Bar Olivino, 899 Fulton Street between Clinton and Vanderbilt, half a block from the Clinton Avenue exit of the Clinton-Washington C-train stop and therefore excellent for an after-work libation. Open 5 p.m. till midnight, Sunday through Thursday, and 5 p.m. till 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
By Kate Blumm
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